Cuvée 1983 2023 Skin contact and in the right hands

and in the right hands produces something genuinely worth paying attention to: a white with body

among the highest Syrah vineyards anywhere

unfiltered

Nous Encore is Gamay in his brighter register

Cuvée 1983 2023 Skin contact and in the right handsPupillin is Ploussard country, and Jean Michel and Laurence Petit make two versions of it. This is the old vine bottling, off a plot planted in 1983, and it carries more concentration than their standard cuve without ever turning heavy. Ploussard pours so pale it could be mistaken for a dark ros, then delivers a good deal more than the colour suggests. Redcurrant and dried rose, a dusty earthiness underneath, and tannins you register as texture rather